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	<title>Roofing and Siding Notes</title>
	<atom:link href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?feed=rss2" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding</link>
	<description>Discussions about roofing and siding with Steve Setynski</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 28 May 2008 21:14:33 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.5.1</generator>
	<language>en</language>
			<item>
		<title>Drive it</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=23</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=23#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 May 2008 15:55:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Fiber Cement Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[DIY]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[flush mount attachment]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[pneumatic nailers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=23</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[

By adding a flush mount attachment it is possible to prevent overdriving nails and banging up the surface of your boards. Many people find themselves pre-drilling their nail holes with particular brands and this can obviously slow down a project. Considering the benefits and the low maintenance costs (most brands have pretty good track records [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/nailing-pics.jpg"><br />
</a></p>
<p>By adding a flush mount attachment it is possible to prevent overdriving nails and banging up the surface of your boards. Many people find themselves pre-drilling their nail holes with particular brands and this can obviously slow down a project. Considering the benefits and the low maintenance costs (most brands have pretty good track records for durability).</p>
<p>In the world of Fiber Cement application most installers have added <strong><a href="http://www2.northerntool.com/category/86+136.htm">pneumatic nailers</a></strong> to their ever growing list of power tools. They speed up the installation process, making money for professionals. The question is whether purchasing one makes sense for the DIY.</p>
<p><a href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/nailing-diag1.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-26" title="nailing-diag1" src="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/nailing-diag1.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="130" /></a></p>
<p>In terms of improving efficiency, a reputable source figured that the nail gun fired 10-14 nails in the time it takes to hand drive one 2 ½ inch nail. That is roughly a 600% gain in efficiency. The numbers prove to be effective for a contractor and obviously similar efficiency gains transfer over to the DIY. Therefore we just need to address the financial advantages. In other words, is it worth spending the money on a gun if you&#8217;re doing a one time installation of 2000 sq ft. It will cost $780 for mid range equipment brand new. My local tool rental shop will provide the same equipment; a compressor, a hose and a gun for $45 a day.</p>
<p>Maybe that is the best comparison. There is little debate over whether the nail gun improves efficiency; it is just a matter of how much you want to spend in addition to the material cost. In my mind, $45/ day is well worth your time. In fact I think it is a great deal. If you don&#8217;t have a line up of projects that would validate purchasing a nail gun, then consider renting one for your next siding project.</p>
<p>Tyler Fox</p>
<p><a href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/nailing-pics.jpg"><br />
</a></p>
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		<title>Stacking your stone accordingly</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=22</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=22#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 23:18:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[manufactured stone siding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=22</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi  All,       So straight  walls and 90 degree corners are a piece of cake&#8230;&#8230;right?  Once you&#8217;ve master  the skills of being able to install this stone and have it come out straight you  can move on to something a little different.  Lots of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi  All,       So straight  walls and 90 degree corners are a piece of cake&#8230;&#8230;right?  Once you&#8217;ve master  the skills of being able to install this stone and have it come out straight you  can move on to something a little different.  Lots of people are stumped when  you run into situations where you don&#8217;t have 90 degree corners.</p>
<p>Sometimes it&#8217;s  <font color="#3366ff"><strong><a href="http://siding.builddirect.com/Image.aspx?ImgPath=images/addinfoimages/home15.jpg" target="_blank" title="http://siding.builddirect.com/Image.aspx?ImgPath=images/addinfoimages/home15.jpg">bay  windows</a> </strong></font>on the house or even if it is on a <strong><font color="#3366ff"><a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/showpost.php?p=420410&amp;postcount=12" target="_blank" title="http://www.contractortalk.com/showpost.php?p=420410&amp;postcount=12">custom  fireplace</a></font></strong>.   Basically you have 3  choices.   1) You can just butt  the stones together and you will get a vertical gap where the stones  meet.   2) You can grout the  line, but when you do this on stack stone it will look a little different  because they aren&#8217;t meant to be grouted   3) Last but not  least, miter cut the stones carefully and butt them together.  This is in my  opinion the best way because if you cut the angle correctly the joints will  blend well.</p>
<p>Check out this <font color="#3366ff"><strong><a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=10704&amp;highlight=cultured+stone" target="_blank" title="http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=10704&amp;highlight=cultured+stone">thread</a></strong></font>  from <font color="#3366ff"><strong><a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/" target="_blank" title="http://www.contractortalk.com/">ContractorTalk.com</a></strong></font>, one of the mason  guys on there helped a contractor solve his problem of having to do a fireplace  with <font color="#3366ff"><strong><a href="http://www.culturedstone.com/" target="_blank" title="http://www.culturedstone.com/">Cultured Stone</a></strong></font> but with non-standard  angles.   I&#8217;d like to hear if  anyone has better suggestions. It&#8217;s like therapy, sometimes it&#8217;s good to talk  about it.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Dave</p>
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		<title>Factory Finish?</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=20</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=20#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Apr 2008 18:55:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Fiber Cement Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Factory Finish]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[fibercement]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Field coat]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=20</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Just a little bit about the finishing process for fiber  cement boards. The factory finish applied by the manufacturer offers two major  advantages. First, your purchasing a product that is ready to install. The  boards come painted, the caulking is color coded to the paint and even the nails  match. This [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just a little bit about the finishing process for fiber  cement boards. The factory finish applied by the manufacturer offers two major  advantages. First, your purchasing a product that is ready to install. The  boards come painted, the caulking is color coded to the paint and even the nails  match. This relieves homeowners of the headache that is known as &#8220;We&#8217;re painting  the house&#8221;. I&#8217;m sure the painters out there won&#8217;t be happy to hear it but for  the most part, planning a painting project around the weather, having to spread  drop sheets over the greenhouse and watching 3-4 people milling around the home  isn&#8217;t always a sought after experience. It really is nice to be able to finish  the job with a few less steps. Granted there will be some touch up necessary  after the product is installed but a factory finish is a world away from  bringing in the paint squad.</p>
<p>Secondly, the finish that the factory applies is better  quality. Applied in a controlled environment, the two coats are evenly  distributed over the boards. The first coat is applied and then baked on. The  second coat is applied and also baked on. No bugs, streaks or moisture problems.  After paint, the boards are coated with a plastic to protect them through  transportation. At the end of the day your siding is installed, painted. Some two coat applications can even give you a25 yr. warranty against peeling, blistering  etc.</p>
<p><a href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/pic_bas5.jpg" title="pic_bas5.jpg"><img src="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/pic_bas5.jpg" alt="pic_bas5.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>So having said all this, and by way I have friends  who paint homes for a living, I would invite a painters perspective on the  factory finish versus the field application. I mean what is the argument against  this process, it seems too good? Did I mention it&#8217;s  usually cheaper&#8230;..</p>
<p>Tyler Fox</p>
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		<title>Up or Down?</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=19</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=19#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Apr 2008 15:17:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=19</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi all,
Here is something that  seems to be so basic that no one ever asks it until they get into the  situation.
&#8220;Where do I start my stone?  Top down or bottom up?
Well what I can say is there really  isn&#8217;t a right or wrong way to do it as long as [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>Here is something that  seems to be so basic that no one ever asks it until they get into the  situation.</p>
<p>&#8220;Where do I start my stone?  Top down or bottom up?</p>
<p>Well what I can say is there really  isn&#8217;t a right or wrong way to do it as long as they stick.  The trouble with  installing in a fashion that is unconventional is that you will have too many  variables to look after.  If you are doing the entire wall it may be a little  easier, reason being is that you can hide some mistakes either near the ground  or near the eves.  If you are installing<font color="#3366ff"><strong> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_veneer" target="_blank" title="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_veneer">stone veneer</a></strong></font> as a <strong><font color="#3366ff"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wainscoting" target="_blank" title="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wainscoting">wainscoting</a></font></strong> then it would  make sense to start top down.</p>
<p>Let me explain, most times if you  are only doing the first 3 to 4 feet up the wall you are going to use a ledge to  separate the 2 types of siding.  Well you want to make sure that your stones are  parallel with the ledge.  If you install your ledge and then start on the bottom  and work your way up, you will likely have a disaster if you don&#8217;t snap a chalk  line to keep you straight.  If you use the foundation as your check to keep the  stones straight the results will be disappointing.  Take a read on this <font color="#3366ff"><strong><a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=24543&amp;highlight=stone+veneer" target="_blank">site</a></strong></font><a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=24543&amp;highlight=stone+veneer" target="_blank">  </a>it has some opinions on where to start.</p>
<p>The only one that made sense to me  and I think everyone was missing it.  Start with the corners first.  Then decide  where you want to go from there.  Bottom line there is no wrong way as long as  the walls don&#8217;t leak and the stone look good.</p>
<p>Dave T.</p>
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		<title>Stuck on you.</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=18</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=18#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Apr 2008 17:46:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[manufactured stone siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[construction adhesive]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[construction Forum]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Mortar]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=18</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi All,
A lot of you are asking if there are any short cuts you can take when installing manufactured stone inside the home. i.e. using construction adhesive instead of a mortar. Inside or out, its best to stick to&#8221; Best Practices&#8221;, use the products the manufacturers recommend in there warranty guidelines. In short, use a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi All,</p>
<p>A lot of you are asking if there are any short cuts you can take when installing manufactured stone inside the home. i.e. using construction adhesive instead of a mortar. Inside or out, its best to stick to&#8221; Best Practices&#8221;, use the products the manufacturers recommend in there warranty guidelines. In short, use a mortar.</p>
<p>If you haven&#8217;t used any cement type products before, don&#8217;t be scared of them. If you follow the directions, it can be very easy to use and clean up depending on the scale of your project. Anyone&#8217;s that&#8217;s made a mess up with construction adhesives or had a tube explode in your gun, knows that not the case here.</p>
<p>I recently found a web site called &#8220;<em><strong><a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=37575" target="_blank">Contractors Talk</a></strong></em>&#8220;. It&#8217;s a forum of Pro installers talking to other Pros&#8217;. There&#8217;s vast array of construction topics just like this. What I like about it, at least in the topics that I&#8217;ve visited, there seem to be more than just two guys discussing one topic so you get more than one opinion.</p>
<p>Check it out.</p>
<p>Build it well</p>
<p>Stevo</p>
<p><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy; font-family: Arial"><br />
<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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		<title>Who&#8217;s your reno for? Spend your $ Wisely</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=17</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=17#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:19:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[renovations]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[return on investment]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Siding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=17</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Recently I had mentioned the importance of matching the  renovation to the income bracket and interests of your potential market. So  continuing with this thread we can talk a little bit about a couple of projects  that offer high returns.
In general kitchens, bathrooms and exteriors offer the  highest percentage returns, or [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Recently I had mentioned the importance of matching the  renovation to the income bracket and interests of your potential market. So  continuing with this thread we can talk a little bit about a couple of projects  that offer high returns.</p>
<p>In general kitchens, bathrooms and exteriors offer the  highest percentage returns, or in other words these projects tend to recoup  80-90% of the money you spend on them. There is a website <font color="#0000ff"><strong><a href="http://www.bankrate.com/brm/news/home_improvement_07/tops-resale-a1.asp?caret=1e" target="_blank" title="http://www.bankrate.com/">www.bankrate.com</a></strong></font> that will provide accurate  numbers on which renovations show the best returns in different American  markets.</p>
<p>Kitchens, in the modern home tend to be the focal point  of the interior. It is an area to which people naturally gravitate and  prospective buyers are going to pay close attention to the layout and  appliances. The function and aesthetics of a kitchen seem to leave solid  impressions on people.</p>
<p>Bathrooms seem to have the ability to recoup a fair  amount of their costs as well.           I have no idea why bathrooms recoup  costs.</p>
<p>Siding however, we can talk about. Would you leave your  child out in the rain for ten years with an ugly coat? A coat that comes apart  at the seams and funnels water into their socks? Probably  not.</p>
<p>Siding is the same. It is a renovation that, coupled  with the roof, protects the rest of your investment from the elements. It has  the ability to draw some curb appeal or attention to your exterior while  protecting your home from leaks and eventually mildew and rot. At the end of the  day it is the renovation that will put the most money back in your  pocket.</p>
<p>Good Day.</p>
<p>Tyler Fox</p>
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		<title>Form over Function</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=16</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=16#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Apr 2008 16:25:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=16</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I live in Vancouver where the conversation about real estate is quite literally as common as a conversation about the weather. People are intrigued with the potential of earning money through home renovation projects and DIY additions. In order to tap in to this potential it is important to know what exactly to renovate. It [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in Vancouver where the conversation about real estate is quite literally as common as a conversation about the weather. People are intrigued with the potential of earning money through home renovation projects and DIY additions. In order to tap in to this potential it is important to know what exactly to renovate. It is different with your first starter home than it is with your retirement home. For example in a low income starter home it&#8217;s a bad idea to invest in marble arches if your sole purpose is to increase the re-sale value. A better option here might be the roof, driveway, yard, front door or entrance way. Something that creates an up lifted home for a potential customer who fits your neighborhoods financial bracket.</p>
<p>For example I moved into a house with my family when I was younger. The previous owner had installed a large marine style propeller in the upstairs ceiling. The propeller sucked the hot air out of the house and into the attic where it dissipated. It was very efficient and I think in the summer everyone in our family appreciated it. As a young kid I was quite fond of having a powerful red propeller in our house. At bargaining time  however, Mom and Dad seemed more concerned about purchasing a house with a high powered boat prop spinning above there children&#8217;s heads, than they did with potential cooling system. You can imagine the bargaining that went on between this boat enthusiast and my mother in terms of what this propeller offered the prospective party. Needless to say his project added very little to the house in terms of value for the seller. The message here being that this fellow may have been better off, financially, adding some plants and a new garage door.</p>
<p>When it comes to return on your renovation the most recent information I&#8217;ve come across is that siding and kitchen renovations are the most cost efficient. Siding provides curb appeal, offering onlookers some color and fresh lines. It provides a basis for your landscaping, windows, roofing and so on. It is a good central place to start. The kitchen is the busiest room in the house, providing a meeting spot for the family and guests as well as providing the space for your appliances. So in the world of limited income these are important choices. Consult with people locally or trust your instincts, but in either case try and compliment your home and your neighborhood.</p>
<p>Tyler Fox</p>
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		<title>mix and match</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=14</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=14#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:28:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=14</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I posted earlier this week regarding  what to use to cap off your stone siding if you&#8217;re only going up the  wall part way, a type of  Wainscoting  if you will.  There are  literally a plethora of different kinds of siding you can use to compliment each other.
Many people [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I posted earlier this week regarding  what to use to cap off your stone siding if you&#8217;re only going up the  wall part way, a type of  <font color="#3366ff"><strong><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panelling" target="_blank">Wainscoting</a>  </strong><font color="#000000">if you will</font></font>.  There are  literally a plethora of different kinds of siding you can use to compliment each other.</p>
<p>Many people who use stone , do so because they&#8217;re looking for a low maintenance product, so to compliment that product it would make sense to use another like fiber cement.   The wide selection of available profiles such as lap siding and shingle &#8217;s gives you many design options, this <font color="#000000">photo gives</font>  you the idea of what I&#8217;m talking about.</p>
<p><a href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/2070515836_9e961376f9.jpg" title="2070515836_9e961376f9.jpg"><img src="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/2070515836_9e961376f9.jpg" alt="2070515836_9e961376f9.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>David Tomson</p>
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		<title>Sharpening up your lines</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=12</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=12#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:06:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[manufactured stone]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Trim]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[window sill]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=12</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[These days people are installing more that one type of  siding onto their home.  This could be for a number of reasons such as cost  or they just don&#8217;t want to have too much of a good thing.  One way to get around  this with the stone is with a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>These days people are installing more that one type of  siding onto their home.  This could be for a number of reasons such as cost  or they just don&#8217;t want to have too much of a good thing.  One way to get around  this with the stone is with a ledge or trim or cap or whatever you want to call  it.  It is a pretty common stone to use and is usually hidden under the name of  ‘Window Sill&#8217;.  Most commonly 18-20 inches long and sticks out from the wall  almost twice the depth of the actual stone.  They are usually made to allow for  water to run off of them.  There are a a multitude of different sidings that  you can use depending on your taste, although you really just have to decide  <strong>Vertical</strong> or <strong>Horizontal.  </strong></p>
<p>Although there are basic trims that you can get to  separate the 2 types of siding the best way is with this trim shown in this  photo.  This for anyone that is wondering was done in our Ready Stack Rustic  Suede.  In my opinion one of the best looking stones available, although some of  that has to do with how it matches the rest of the theme on the  home.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Dave Tomson</p>
<p><a href="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/side-gate.JPG" title="side gate, stone siding"><img src="http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/side-gate.JPG" alt="side gate, stone siding" height="400" width="300" /></a></p>
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		<title>Going all The way</title>
		<link>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=11</link>
		<comments>http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=11#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Mar 2008 00:04:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Fiber Cement Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[General Roofing &amp; Siding]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Butt Joints]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Caulk]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Fiber Cement]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Flashing]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Trim]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.builddirect.com/roofingandsiding/?p=11</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Is a mountain of rotten wood or faded vinyl siding decorating your front lawn? Now before you dive into your new project, Cape-Cod cedar shingles or Fiber Cement lap siding, take a good look at the condition of your structure. While you or your installer is dismantling the outside of your home, you have an [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Is a mountain of rotten wood or faded vinyl siding decorating your front lawn? Now before you dive into your new project, Cape-Cod cedar shingles or Fiber Cement lap siding, take a good look at the condition of your structure. While you or your installer is dismantling the outside of your home, you have an excellent opportunity to inspect the condition of the structure of your building . This is general for all trades really. I would say that usually you&#8217;ll uncover some nasty truths about the state of a home during reno projects.</p>
<p>Most of the problems surrounding siding are water related. More often than not, with lap siding anyways, the damage is a result of wind driven rain getting through the butt joints. Maybe you find that your tar paper or (in some cases newspaper) has very little life left in it and the structural timbers are wet or even beginning to rot. Although it probably isn&#8217;t in the budget, fix this stuff while you have the chance, seek it out and repair it. Put your siding off for two days and tend to any thing you find in disrepair. The other option is pretty bleak, i.e removing your new siding in 6 months to fix an old problem.</p>
<p>As far as a builders tips go &#8220;Ask the Builder&#8221; is providing some good information on <a href="http://www.askthebuilder.com/B185_Installing_Fiber_Cement_Siding.shtml" target="_blank"><u><strong>installation techniques</strong></u> </a>to ensure that water stays out of your butt joints. He uses a miniature flashing behind the caulking, pretty clever.</p>
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