Decked Out

Fiber Cement Boards have become the standard for residential siding projects. DIY ers apply it as an upgrade or replacement product while many residential builders are installing it on their ‘new construction’ projects. It is a relatively inexpensive, low maintenance, long lasting and attractive product. This is a rare combination in the competitive world of building materials. One of the initial knocks from a builders stand point in the past, has been the general lack of workability of the product. This opinion is changing as fiber cement has become more established and the tools have obviously evolved and become more specialized. I’ve included a link that provides some good simple descriptions of the tools and the situations in which there used. I’m hoping that this provides a little confidence for the prospective Do It Yourselfer.

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Need a plan or having a hard time visualizing what the end product will look like? Most folks who call in already have a good idea but sometimes a good idea can get better.  We are not in the construction business, however one site I found that I like is a site dedicated to the deck construction. www.homeplaninfo.com/decks/deck-plans.aspx  ,   a straight forward approach.

 Not only decks but also patios and various materials with the pros and cons can be reviewed.  Build a strong deck and a beautiful deck.

Regards, Glen

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Hi All, There seems to be a bit of confusion out there between manufactured stone product and the PU (polyurethane) siding panels. Some of you are asking for manufactured stone in large sheets and panels.  In most cases, manufactured stone is produced in individual pieces, same as you’d receive a natural stone product. The exception to the rule is a “Dry Stack” profile where we mold multiple stone pieces into one product piece, quickening the install process. Adding to its popularity is the fact you don’t have to grout this product, eliminating probably the toughest step to the install process. Even with the multiple stone mold, our largest piece is still only 4”h x 20”L, just over a 1/2sq.ft. of coverage. If you’re asking yourself why we just don’t make them bigger, the simple answer is weight. Our lightest MFS product comes in a around 6.5lbs per sq.ft. and our heaviest at 10lbs. If you do the math, that would put a 3’ x 5’ stone panel at 98lbs to 150lbs per, a little tough to manage even for two installers. If you’ve seen a “Stone” panel product being installed on a site or on TV it more than likely PU product. It’s incredibly light at roughly 1 lb per sq.ft. and the panels come in array of sizes. There are a number of different brands out there with a fairly wide range of profiles like stone, brick and stucco. If wondering how durable foam can be? Trust me, its tough. When it comes to blunt trauma, it surprised me every time. I’ve stomped up and down on it with no visible signs of damage.  The only way I could deform the surface was by stabbing it with the pointed end of a golf umbrella. Even then, the color stayed on the surface and the foam didn’t show through. Its impressive stuff and has been used in the automotive industry for years. The material cost of the PU is more expensive than the manufactured stone but levels the playing field once you factor in the reduced installation time and cost. Comparisons have been done showing the panels can go on the wall up to five times faster than a real stone product and some PU’s can even add a small amount of R  value to your structure. In the past, I think the PU product line has struggled with the issue of believability. Most of the panels never really looked like a true stone product when installed but I think we’ve finally turned that corner now. It’s pretty hard to tell the PU foam from stone if you’re a few feet away. Some profiles with larger grout lines will always struggle I think as the manufacturers have a hard time keeping color of the stone from  mixing in with the grout lines. The Dry Stack profiles don’t have this issue and continue to be our biggest sellers. There you have it, hope this clears thing up a little for you. Build it well

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I receive a lot of questions on the subject of how to protect a wood deck.  I wrote earlier about UV and water, the two deadliest enemies of wood.  Whether a hardwood or softwood,  natural or pressure treated the fibers need protection.  I am not going to recommend any one treatment,  there are too many out there and they have different objectives.  I thought I would discuss the factors to consider.

Climate-  hot and dry,  humid, cold,  extremes of both?   Seasonality plays a big effect on wood,  particularly absorbing moisture in the winter, and then suffering hot dry summers.  The constant humidity changes can cause the fiber to split and warp as it dries too quickly and then has to reabsorb moisture later.

Every species reacts differently to the elements,  some of the pressure treated woods need to have frequent treatments, particulary in the southern climates.  Cedar is a very stable wood and will not shrink or warp to the same extent as the pines or firs.  The hardwoods can be very dense,  and will not absorb treatments as readily as the softwoods  so make sure you consider this when buying sealers.  Sealers work best when absorbed into the fibers,  not creating a film coating on the surface.  There are sealers on the market that do consider the nature of the wood decking. 

New decks should be protected as soon as you can,  any wood left exposed to the sun will start to degrade quickly and turn gray. This will affect how the sealers will work as well.  Before applying sealer make sure the deck is clean of any dirt or mildew,   a good cleaner and a “gentle” pressure washer/garden hose will do the trick. 

Picking the right sealer is difficult,  there are numerous brands and the key components must be a UV protector and a water repellant.   but by category the listings can be condensed to  clear,  semi-transparent  or solid.  Do you wish the natural color of the wood to show or is the deck an older deck  that already is gray or previously stained, this is where a color additive will make that old deck look newer.

A lot of choices and factors to consider but bottom line,  sealers and stains will add life to your deck,  enhance the appearance of the deck and add value to the house.

Regards, Glen

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What factors go into deciding “what decking material should I use?”   The big factor is usually price and performance.  With cost being a big factor  the pressure treated woods are usually used on the underside,  readily available in most building supply centers,  and on most surfaces as well.    

1. Pressure treated woods are the first option, costwise and the most readily available
2. Western  Red Cedar and Redwood in 5/4 x 6  and 2×6  are two options, price wise higher than P/T  but still good value for a durable softwood
3. Composite decking   -  a lot of  different brands and designs out there,  and many different prices
4. PVC  (vinyl decking)  - an excellent product line, and somewhat more expensive that composites- usually
5. Hardwoods  - Ipe, Cumaru and even Tigerwood  -  durable and strong hardwoods,  excellent for high end decks and usually top of the “price ladder”

It is hard to put exact prices to each, but if you take the pressure treated as the base at 100%  the price ladder may look something like the following.  don’t look only at the price but also the performance of the options- 

1. P/T  -    100%
2. Cedar     125-200% depending on the grade
3. Composite   200% -250%
4. PVC        250%- 300%
5. Hardwoods   300% or even more- usually very high grade lumber

 Regards,  Glen

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The annual question,  do I need to apply the protective sealer this year?  The first consideration is the species used on the deck,  and what type of climate is the deck in?

 Any sealer with a UV protector, whether a clear or semi-solid or solid stain, is going to add life to your deck and it is something that should be done on a regular basis, regardless of the species.  Southern climates also are harsher due to the sun and UV,  and the heat does dry out the boards quickly causing the cracks and splits.

The pressure treated woods,  Pine,  Hemlock and some Spruce/Firs,   should have a coating annually as the species are prone to cracking as the wood dries out after a wet winter.  The Cedars are more stable so they do not crack as much - but an annual coating is good for longevity and keeping color.  With a lack of UV  protection  the wood will go gray over time,  any wood will lose its color and vitality.

 The hardwoods are more durable and will hold up for a longer time than the softwoods, but again using a sealer and protective coating will add to the life of the deck,  and keep it looking good.  Part of the reason for buying the hardwoods is the deep rich colors you can get- the UV protection will help keep the deck looking good.

Softwoods will absorb the stains much better than the dense hardwoods,  so best to discuss your needs with the local paint expert and supplier.  I had a buyer who indicated the hardwoods did not absorb the sealer he was using and left a surface film, so check carefully the various brands and recommendations.

 If you are using a stain,  try it first on a board to see how it looks,  sometimes what you see in the can  will look quite different once applied.

Regards, Glen

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Have you ever wondered what to do with that old concrete patio, slightly cracked, looking dirty and forlorn.  A simple and not-so-easy solution is to tear up the concrete and start over but who wants to really do that.

Interlocking wood tiles make an easy up-grade to the outdoor life,  inexpensive, easy and fast to put down over that old and dirty patio.  Also,  if you want wood around the swimming pool these are a good option to go over the patio. The species we use are Eucalyptus and Shorea,  both hardwoods that will last through the seasons,  or take them up over the winter if you like.

 Our brand is KonTiki  (as in the raft) and definitely look at these on our website.  They really are good.

Regards, Glen

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How many times have you heard about the hardwoods Ipe and Cumaru?  Two very good species that give the rich brown tones buyers do like.  Ipe is the better known species, and is one of the hardest woods in the world, with a nickname like Iron-wood I don’t need to add more.   Its strength is great and will add value to any home.

Cumaru is very close to Ipe in hardness and durability also,  and again will give years, or decades, of service. 

The species will not give off splinters or slivers,  with some UV water repellent sealer the woods will keep their color tones for years.  Performance wise both are excellent hardwoods. Check them out.

regards,  Glen

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Campbell wrote about the PVC decking and he is right.  It has been a very good seller for us, and now with the larger producers of decking starting, it will be on the radar screen with many more buyers.   If you have not checked out Quadra decking please do so.  You will not be disappointed.

Regards Glen

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The “hot” new product hitting the market this year is PVC decking.  Azek, Timber Tech and Trex have all launched products in the last year and have extensive distribution for their products.  They are also being carried by a large number of dealers betting on this addressing a large customer need.

While this take up with sellers is evident, what remains to be seen is whether the hype behind the category leads to sales and growth of the non-wood category, cannabilization of composite sales or develops as a niche product.  With a price point that is anywhere from 20-100% higher than most composites, PVC decking really is a different product from composites and being aimed at a very different customer who would typically build their deck with pressure treated lumber.

While not exactly new, as vinyl product have been on the market for several years (Introduction of Quadra Decking in 2006), vinly’s time may be here given some of the frustration seen with composites: primarily fading and staining.  Addressing these concerns will build credibility not only for the PVC category, but may also address some of the damage sustained to the non-wood category due to the inital issues faced by composite.

I came across an article from Professional Deck Builder online which gives an overview of some of the PVC products out there: Professioinal Deck Builder: PVC Decking.  It gives an overview of some of the product announcements for 2008.

If you have experience with PVC Decking, let me know how it’s worked for you.  The feedback I have heard so far has been incredibly positive.

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